The story every surfer should know

surf-old-school

There are many enthusiasts of surf, but only few know how and where exactly this sport was born, what are its roots, culture and history. In fact, surfing is one of the oldest sports in the world. But the surf of that time has nothing to do with what we practice now.

The first surf roots are related to the ancient Hawaiians that glided over the waves with wooden boards. You can imagine the blows that were given! Only few went out of the water without bruises. That wasn’t only their favourite hobby, it had also a strong link with religion and society. When conditions for surfing were not good, they used to pray and make ritual songs and dances for the gods.

Suddenly everything changed with the arrival of the Captain James Cook who wanted to invade the island and destroy the Hawaiian tradition by banning the surf. After that, people stopped practicing surf for a long time.

In the early twentieth century, thanks to a group of teenagers called “Beach Boys of Waikiki” began the rebirth of surfing. Besides, a Hawaiian Duke Kahanamoku demonstrated to a small group of people in the United States the maneuvers that  can be done with a surfboard and the passion for surfing took no time to reach the coasts of California and later Australia. Since the 20s, due to the technological advancement and the transformation of the design of surfboards, much easier to handle, began the revolution of this sport. After the war, the evolution of surfing was unstoppable. The use of new materials for the boards and the invention of the wetsuit of neoprene turned surf into a not just summer hobby.

Years later, began the boom of surf movies that made a big impact, not only showing it as a sport but also as a lifestyle. This huge surf popularity made appear new clubs, championships and surf events that some still exist.

The surf that is currently practiced had an incredible transformation. Now, with the application of new technology, boards are much smaller and with less weight, that permit a variety of maneuvers, techniques and turns that make surf more than just a sport.

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