A surfer start his day with a wave and ends it up with a wave. If it’s a good or a bad day everything depends on the swell. The love for the ocean, the adrenaline and the peace at the same time are only few of the things that makes surfing more than just a sport.
It makes you feel happier. Every wave we surf makes us feel alive, pump us with inexpressible energy and happiness. Starting a day or after a bad day catching a wave is the best source of pleasure, joy and well-being. It helps to escape from the daily problems and teaches to be less attached to material things in life. No matter how bad was your day, surf cures everything!
Surfers are more successful people. While surfing you learn to be more patient, persistent and to make right decisions faster. Also surfers tend to be more self confident, creative and less stressful what helps them to be better in their career and personal life. And the best is that while surfing you learn a lot about yourself.
It’s very challenging. The ocean is not like a football pitch, you never know how you’ll be surprised. It always challenges you. And not only when you are a beginner. Surf requires a lot of persistence, dedication and hard work. And not only physical exertion but also a lot of mental concentration.
It teaches how to deal with fear and risk. Surf is a very adventurous sport that involves a lot of thrill and high risk. Sometimes the ocean can be unpredictable and extremely dangerous. Everytime we challenge ourselves to ride a bigger and complicated wave we’re facing our fears, learn to get rid of them and leave our comfort zone.
Surfers have the biggest passion for what they do. A real surfer can’t stand a day without catching a wave. Like Paul Strauch said “Surfing is very much like making love. It always feels good, no matter how many times you’ve done it”. From the moment a surfer wakes up in the morning his first thoughts are about how is the swell today.
Surfers are like a community. In life most people are used to think about themselves first and see their own interests. Surfers tend to help each other, spend the time together, share their experience and knowledge, teach and advise other surfers. They support each other as a community.
It’s like a religion. Water in religion has always been is a symbol of life and energy. The peace and harmony that is transferred in the middle of the ocean allow the best time to pray and for a deep contemplation. Lots of surfers combine their passion to surf with their spiritual beliefs. Only a surfer knows this feeling.
Surfing is a way of life. From the beginning of it’s roots till now, surf has always been something more than just a sport. The culture of surf has it’s own fashion, language, music, art and lifestyle. Every surfer could agree that that’s not what we do, it’s what we are. Surfing covers all their spirit.